Complications

Hublot Big Bang King All Black - Flying Under the Radar with the Biggest of Bangs

Under the watchful eye of Carlo Crocco its owner; Hublot, 'the watch of all watches' has enjoyed an incredible surge in business with the introduction of its Big Bang collection.  The brainchild of Jean-Claude Biver, the man who orchestrated what many insiders view as the salvation of Blancpain, the Big Bang is a statement watch that's rich in originality, quality and design.  Now just a few years since its launch, the range of offerings in the Big Bang collection is hard to keep track of - and they are all great watches!

When I first saw the details (and pictures) of the Hublot Big Bang King All Black, I knew that this was a watch that I had to have.  I love big watches and prefer design elements that are more understated than in your face - the Big Bang King All Black is huge at 48mm and ultra stealthy with its tone on tone (charcoal over black) design.

The case of the King All Black is ceramic - it's incredibly durable, seemingly impossible to scratch and has a subtle matte finish that's unlike any other case material on the market.  The huge upside of ceramic is that you can finally enjoy a black watch without having to worry about the PVD holding up to everyday wear. 

There's a black ceramic countdown bezel with raised markers and arabics that's anchored by a bezel lug that's made of black composite resin.

The dial too is matte black with hands and markers in a satin finish that's luminescent in low light conditions.  Even the date window inside the 3 o'clock marker gets the stealth treatment with a black field that matches the dial and slightly darker numbers. 

The crown is high polish stainless steel with a black rubber insert - it, along with the titanium screws that affix the band and bezel lugs, contrasts nicely with the otherwise monotone presentation.

Inside the waterproof case (300 meters) is the Hublot HUB21 calibre movement.  It's based on the ETA 2892 and extensively modified - among the more interesting enhancements is the tungsten carbide rotor that's PVD coated and has a dimpled texture.   

The Hublot Big Bang King All Black is supplied with a black rubber strap that's secured with a stainless steel and PVD deployant buckle.  Only 500 pieces are being manufactured - secure yours now as they are sure to sell out quickly and ultimately command a premium over MSRP.          

 

OCEAN7 LM-6 - A Top Sub $1000 Diver

Mitch Feig and his crew at OCEAN7 seem to have found the perfect blend of rugged tool watch design, flawless operation and wrist impact with the OCEAN7 LM-6.  While the ranking officers at most watch companies are content with making an appearance at the awards ceremony of a sponsored event or doing the meet and greet at the shows, Mitch seems to be most interested in interacting with his customers - getting their feedback, answering their questions and even seeking their advice.  He actively participates in the OCEAN7 forum where you can ask him a question or pass along your opinions. 

On to the LM-6.  As many of you know, I'm somewhat obsessed with tool watches - more specifically dive watches.  I'm always on the lookout for a watch that's heavy in function and brings just the right amount of form to the equation too.  The 'perfect' dive watch to me is one that looks much more at home kicking the silt up at 90 feet than it does tucked beneath a french cuff (not that I don't advocate defying convention a bit and wearing a no-nonsense tool watch with a suit).  It also needs to feel like it will stand up to just about anything - and then deliver on that promise.  The OCEAN7 LM-6 handily meets all of these requirements and there's more.  The more is the fact that you can buy one for $799. USD - directly from the manufacturer (roughly four for the price of one Omega or six for the price of one Rolex) and then there's the exceptional camaraderie of the owners group you can interact with on the aforementioned forum... Oceanisti anyone?

The LM-6 is a big watch by any standard - it's 44mm diameter and 16mm thickness are a testament to the vault-like nature of the case that keeps the works dry down to 500 meters and protected from anything you are likely to encounter beneath the surface or on terra firma.  It has a great wrist presence with just enough clunk to remind you that you are wearing it.  The bezel has 120-clicks and is uni-directional and is easy to manipulate when it's wet and you are wearing gloves.  The elapsed time markers on the bezel are deeply engraved and easy to read - the orange minutes hand of the LM-6 makes for a perfect low-light indication of bottom time.  The crown of the LM-6 is robust, easy to unscrew and manipulate and protected by some serious steel. 

While there's a lot to like about the LM-6, if I had to pick a favorite, it would have to be the dial.  It's simple and uncluttered and just perfect to my eye.  Even the date window at 6 o'clock is designed to avoid distracting from the much more important work at hand.

The OCEAN7 LM-6 is available in black, blue, yellow and orange dials and with a variety of straps or a stainless steel bracelet.  It's 24mm lugs make it a perfect target for all sorts of interesting strap combinations.  Even with a lot of other options in the stable, this is a watch that will spend a lot of time on your wrist!

This is the part where I usually say that if you are looking for this or that then maybe you should consider the watch that I'm reviewing - I need to go a few steps beyond that with the LM-6!  If you like watches enough to be reading this blog - BUY THIS WATCH!          

Eterna KonTiki Diver - Failsafe Bottom Time

Acquired by Ferdinand Porsche in 1998, and the launchpad for the Porsche Design line of watches, Eterna has a rich and storied history dating back to 1856 when it, under the direction of Urs Schild began producing watch movements.

By far the most iconic of Eterna's line of watches is the KonTiki series.  Named after the rustic raft that carried Norwegian explorer Thor Heyerdahl from Peru across the Pacific to Polynesia in 1947 and it's namesake, the Incan Sun God; the Eterna KonTiki Diver too embodies the spirit of exploration by unusual means.

In a well thought out departure from conventional dive watch design, the Eterna KonTiki Diver forgoes the ubiquitous uni-directional bottom time bezel in favor of a much more failsafe design.  Utilizing a unique two-piece case design, the movement vault and the band attachment points are connected by a hinged mechanism that is released by two activators just below the top lugs.  The crown which remains with the movement portion of the operation is secured within the undercarriage.  The bezel is mechanically locked as well - so when in the diving/wearing position, the crown is completely protected and it is impossible for the bezel to move.  To set the watch, you simply release movement container at the top attachment point and pivot it on the bottom hinge to reveal the crown.  Utilizing a shaft seal that's similar to the crankshaft seal on an automobile engine, the crown is waterproof without the need for a screw down device.  To line up the orange 'zero' triangle of the inner bezel with the minute hand to prepare for a dive, you just release the case, hinge it down a bit and rotate the outer bezel (which in turn rotates the inner bezel).  Both operations are much more simple to accomplish than to describe.

The size of the KonTiki Diver is perfectly suited to its function.  At 46mm in diameter and 16mm thick, this big Eterna is not lacking for anything when it comes to wrist presence. 

The dial, besides being easy to read and well organized, looks great with a splash of orange on the power reserve display and the first 15 minute markers of its internal bottom time bezel.  There's a date display between 7 and 8 o'clock - an unusual placement owing to the crown up orientation of the movement.   

Powering the Diver is ETA's Calibre 2897 automatic movement, it has a 42 hour power reserve that's tracked by the aforementioned orange arc at 4 o'clock on the dial.

The case of the KonTiki Diver is PVD'd titanium while the bridge and rotating bezel are stainless steel - this makes for a lightweight watch with a lot of aesthetic appeal. 

It is supplied with a silicon strap and secured with a double-folding stainless steel clasp that's equipped with a wetsuit extension.

The MSRP of Eterna KonTiki Diver is $9,200 USD.  It's a great watch that's ideally suited for the watch collector who has a taste for the unique and spends a great deal of time underwater.      

Sinn U1 Divers - Basic with Braun

If you spend a lot of time underwater, you quickly come to appreciate the thought that has gone into the design of a watch like the Sinn U1 Divers.  As one of my favorite dive watches, the U1 gets a ton of wrist time when the weather gets hot - it's also a watch that accompanies me on a wide variety of underwater adventures. 

Sinn manufactures some of the most robust and task-ideal tool watches in the world.  The U1 incorporates all of Sinn's cutting edge innovations - from its tegimented case that is hardened to 1,500 Vickers (and much more resistant to scratches than a normal stainless steel case) to its sapphire crystal that incorporates progressive reflective technology for perfect legibility in all light conditions.  Equally important to most serious divers, the U1 shuns the superfluous in favor of a clean and clear presentation of the information expected of a watch that has a critical function in survival.  A quick glance at the Sinn U1 Divers reveals both the current time and the elapsed bottom time (courtesy of a non-losable uni-directional bezel that's lined up with the minute hand just before submerging). 

The Sinn U1 is 44mm in diameter and just over 14mm thick.  The screw-down waterproof crown is offset to the 4 o'clock position on the right side of the case - an arrangement that adds significantly to the comfort factor and eliminates the crown fatigue that can undermine a waterproof watch that sees a lot of vigorous activity.

The hands of the U1 are luminous and glow brightly when lighting conditions are poor.  Each hand is red as it emerges from the center arbor and then white (luminous) as it extends toward the minute track - a design that dramatically increases your ability to instinctively distinguish between the hours, minutes and seconds hands in all light conditions. 

Inside the U1 is an ETA Caliber 2824-2 automatic movement.  With 25 jewels and an amplitude of 28,800 vph, it's a stable and reliable performer. 

After securing the movement in the case and making the final adjustments, the watchmakers at Sinn subject the watch to a testing protocol developed in conjunction with Hamburg's Germanischer Lloyd that results in certification according to European dive equipment standards.  It confirms the temperature stability and function of the watch under extreme temperature conditions - a serious consideration as dive watches are routinely subjected to instant 50 degree temperature swings.  Lloyd also certifies the U1 for water-resistance and pressure-proofing (100 bar).

The Sinn U1 Divers is furnished with a silicon strap that has a deployant clasp equipped with a wetsuit extension.  The MSRP is $1850 USD - an incredible value for the diver who value vault-like construction and user friendly tool-like design.

Oris Carlos Coste Chronograph - A Free Diving Phenom

Carlos Coste, a native of Caracas Venezuela, can attest to the forces that wreak havoc on things submerged 140 meters below the surface - he's been there - without an auxiliary air source - a feat that secured his status as the world record holder for Variable Weight Free-Diving (AIDA - International Association for the Development of Apnea).  Free-Diving is diving in its most basic form - there's no need for tanks - just the ability to hold your breath for a ridiculous amount of time and maintain orientation and survival instincts as the lights start to go out.  A word to the wise - don't try this at home!

The Oris Carlos Coste Chronograph is clearly a watch worthy of the achievements of its namesake.  Although my breath holding skills are limited to about the time that it takes for a well hit drive to settle onto the fairway - and I'm much more comfortable with the idea of breathing underwater than I am at having to hold my breath, it's easy for me to imagine the capabilities that a free diver would be looking for when selecting a watch: 

First of course, as with any diving watch, the water needs to stay on the outside of the case - the Carlos Coste Chronograph is waterproof to 1000 meters. 

Then there's the size of the watch and the dial arrangement - as the amount of oxygen in your blood begins to wane, your ability to focus clearly on small things diminishes - as things get a bit murky, the hands and markers of your watch must be large and legible for there to be any chance of you being able to read them - the Oris Carlos Coste is a huge watch (47mm) with a large and uncluttered dial - its contrasting orange hands and indexes are easy to read in low light conditions. 

And finally, there needs to be a seconds hand since, unlike SCUBA diving, seconds are important in Free-Diving.  The Carlos Coste Chrono has one - it's subdialed at 3 o'clock and it too features a bright orange arrow-tipped hand. 

Much of the practice that Free-Divers do consists of extended breath holding exercises done topside - for those, the chronograph functions of this gigantic Oris will come in handy.  There's a 'destro' orientation to the crown and pushers - they're on the left side of the case instead of the right - some think it's a better arrangement for the activation of the chronograph functions and it's certainly more comfortable to wear. 

There is a date and day display side-by-side in the 9 o'clock space.  A uni-directional bezel provides a 60 minute scale for the bottom time tracking important to SCUBA divers.  There's also a screw down helium escape valve at 2 o'clock on the off chance that a commercial diver takes the plunge with an Oris Carlos Coste on his or her wrist. 

The case and bracelet are titanium and the bracelet has the requisite wet suit extension.  The caseback is vault-like and engraved with the limited edition information (#xxxx/2000).  It's also a bit convex and very comfortable up against your wrist.  Inside is the Oris 678 Automatic Movement - it's based on the ETA 7750, has a 42 hour power reserve, 25 jewels and beats at 28,800 vph.  Most obvious in the Oris re-work of the ETA workhorse 7750 is the brilliant red rotor that has become an Oris tradition. 

The Oris Carlos Coste Chronograph is part of the Oris Divers Series.  It's a limited production piece (2000 examples) and has a MSRP of $3195. USD.  Whether or not you aspire to visit the depths sans tank, this is a striking watch with a great deal of functionality and many very well thought out details.       

 

Schaumburg Watch Aquamatic No. 3 - A Diver for Insiders

In Lower Saxony in the Schaumburg region of Germany is Schaumburg Watch, a small workshop that's producing some fantastic watches in very limited numbers.  Propelled by a proud team of creative designers and talented watchmakers, Schaumburg Watch has gotten the attention of a small but growing group of watch collectors who appreciate the allure of a watch that's both exceptional and a bit obscure.

The Schaumburg Watch Aquamatic No. 3 is a blue dialed version of Schaumburg's Aquamatic model.  Designed to accept the generous dose of banging around that comes with underwater operations, the Aquamatic No. 3 has a robust stainless steel case (42mm in diameter - almost 17mm thick) and a substantial and well protected screw down crown.   The unidirectional bezel of the Aquamatic provides a reliable indication of bottom time and is easily manipulated with neoprene gloves.  For mixed gas / commercial divers, there's a helium escape valve and a waterproof rating of 3000 ft.  Other than the inclusion of a date in the 6 o'clock space - a nice feature since even the watch of the most prolific underwater adventurer will spend much more time topside than below the surface, the Aquamatic is about as no-nonsense a diving watch as can be had.

Inside of the Schaumburg Aquamatic is the Caliber SW 20A - it's based on the ETA 2824 - a solid choice since reliability in adverse conditions is a design requirement and service needs to be simple and easy to find. 

Besides the allure of knowing that you're wearing a watch that very few people will recognize but most will wonder about, there's another benefit in acquiring a Schaumburg Watch - the value equation.  A small and carefully executed advertising strategy means that you'll be paying for the materials intrinsic to the watch and the time of the skilled master watchmaker who made it and not the Madison Avenue fluff that's built into the price of most big production fine watches.  If you can do without a COSC (you can - this is a tool watch remember!), the Schaumburg Watch Aquamatic can be had for $1400 US  (COSC'd version is $1940) - a bargain!  Buy one now before the world gets wind of what's going on at that small workshop in Schaumburg.   

Kobold Large Soarway Diver - A Perfect Dive Watch?

Kobold, a watch company that began in the college dorm room (Carnegie Mellon) of its founder Michael Kobold, is, just a decade later, known throughout the world as a manufacturer of exceptional watches for adventurers.  While much of the success of the brand might be attributed to Kobold's philosophy of enlisting the guidance of professionals in the field for which a watch is being designed to assist with its development; stellar customer service combined with a strictly controlled annual production that allows Kobold to maintain a high level of connection with his customers has surely made a significant contribution to the reputation that Kobold enjoys - a Kobold watch is among the best of the best.

Like a lot of our regular readers, I do a lot of diving.  While arguably my dive watches spend much more time on a dry wrist, all of them have gotten wet at one point or another and some have accumulated some serious bottom time.  For diving, I prefer a rugged tool watch with basic and reliable functionality to some gee-whiz chronograph that can be operated 3000 feet below the surface and compute split times. 

I gravitate to watches like the Kobold Large Soarway Diver with it's huge (45mm+) and robust case, easy to see and grab bezel and clean simple dial.  It's obvious that someone who spends a lot of time underwater had a great deal of input into the design of this watch - that someone is Philippe Cousteau, the grandson of world famous underwater adventurer Jacques Yves Cousteau and the co-founder (along with his sister Alexandra) of Earth Echo International, a conservation organization to which Kobold has pledged the proceeds from the sale of the Large Soarway Diver.

The Kobold Large Soarway Diver is waterproof to 500 meters, anti-magnetic (thanks to an inner soft iron case) and shock resistant.  Inside the vault-like stainless steel case is an ETA 2824-A2 that has a Glucydur balance, a Nivarox 1 mainspring and INCABLOC shock protection.  Kobold includes a waterproof nylon strap for underwater missions and a nice leather strap for topside pursuits.

If you are a tool watch purist and want a robust no-frills dive watch that will surely survive anything that you or many future generations may be able to throw at it, you'll find a lot to like about the Kobold Large Soarway Diver.

MSRP is $4250 and production is limited to 150 pieces.

Ulysse Nardin Maxi Marine Diver Chronograph - A Next Gen UN

Rolf Schnyder and his crew at Ulysse Nardin have an undisputable knack for dispensing with the limitations of the tried and true premises of watchmaking's past and merging cutting edge technology and a fresh and creative thought process into the watches they create.

The Ulysse Nardin Maxi Marine Diver Chronograph is a striking watch with some very unique and original design elements.

The Maxi Marine Diver Chrono is certainly not lacking in personality.  While the case itself is stainless steel, there's a black rubberized insert on the uni-directional bezel and black titanium highlights on the pushers and crown.  The rubber bracelet has titanium UN signed accents and a deployant clasp. 

The silver subdials of the registers at 3 and 9 o'clock offer a perfect backdrop for the bright blue indexes and black and red hands that keep track of the passage of time.  The tip and balance of the central seconds hand are also red.

There's a magnified date display that replaces the 6 o'clock marker.  It can be quickly adjusted via a recessed pusher at 10 o'clock on the left side of the case.

The Maxi Marine Diver Chronograph is almost 43mm in diameter and supplied with a rubber bracelet that's both secure and comfortable.  It's waterproof to 200 Meters and, while definitely not the typical 'tool watch' style diver, it's certainly a capable performer underwater if you decide to test its mettle in the open water.

If you're looking for a great sports watch to add to your collection, the Ulysse Nardin Maxi Marine Diver Chronograph deserves strong consideration - it's super sharp and brilliantly constructed. 

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Diving Chronograph - Deep Sea Nirvana

Jaeger-LeCoultre has made a serious investment in the development of cutting edge watches for serious divers - the dividends are evident in JLC watches like the Master Compressor Diving Chronograph.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Diving Chronograph looks like it's ready for anything you can throw at it.  It's massive grade 5 titanium case - 44mm in diameter and 16.25mm thick - protects the JLC Caliber 751D that beats inside.  The 751D is a 41 jewel automatic movement that operates at 28,800 vph with twin spring barrels and a power reserve of 65 hours. 

The thick sapphire crystal and patented compression key system that protects the crown and pushers keeps the Master Compressor Diving Chronograph dry down to 100ATMs. 

There's a uni-directional bezel for tracking bottom time that's easy to grip with gloves and easy to read underwater against the large luminescent hands.  Subdialed at 3 and 9 o'clock respectively are chronograph displays that track elapsed minutes (up to 30) and hours (up to 12) respectively.  There's also a date display at 4:30 and a white and blue movement operating indicator just north of 6 o'clock.

Along the inner bezel of the Master Compressor Diving Chronograph is a pulsometer scale - start the chronograph, count 30 heart beats and then look at where the seconds hand is on the scale to indicate your pulse in beats per minute.  For SCUBA divers this is just a novelty - for free (breath hold) divers, its extremely pertinent.

With a titanium bracelet, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Diving Chronograph retails for $11,000 USD.

JLC has devoted a whole new website to its Master Compressor Divers - it's definitely worth a look. 

RGM Professional Automatic Diver Model 300 - A Serious Dive Watch from Lancaster, PA

Roland Murphy and his crew at RGM have almost single handedly put the US back on the fine watchmaking map.  Known industry-wide for his skills and attention to detail, Roland is on the short list of many notable collectors when it comes to the restoration of a vintage timepiece.  RGM also has a great line of watches and recently has begun manufacturing its own movement, the Caliber 801. 

The RGM Model #300 Professional Automatic Diver is, without any doubt, a serious diving watch.  The uni-directional bezel is attached to the case with screws to prevent any incidental contact with an underwater object from dislodging it.  The bezel is easy to grasp and incredibly well engineered (240 clicks per revolution).  The crown is large and protected to mid-crown by guards on either side - enough of the crown protrudes to make it easy to unscrew.  There's a date wheel at three o'clock and a seconds hand to make the Model #300 equally functional above sea level.  Both indices and hands are luminous and easy to read in low light conditions.   

Inside of the RGM Professional Automatic Diver is an ETA 2892-A2.  As you would expect of anything coming from the RGM shop, it's been extensively modified both mechanically and aesthetically (bridges and plates decorated with perlage and Cotes de Geneve).  It's anti-magnetic and double gaskets on both the caseback and crown along with a 5mm thick sapphire crystal ensure that it will remain free of water down to its 2500ft rating (do not exit the submarine - the watch won't stop working but you will).

The RGM Model #300 is just over 43mm in diameter and almost 16mm thick.  A lug width of 22mm accommodates a nice wide strap that keeps the watch in place handily when it's worn over a wetsuit.

This is a great watch for divers who appreciate a no-nonsense tool watch that doesn't compromise on quality or fit and finish.  RGM is always a pleasure to do business with and I couldn't recommend Roland or his work any more strongly.