Complications

Carl F Bucherer Manero RetroGrade - Complicated Date

The Carl F. Bucherer Manero RetroGrade is a great office watch that can easily do some double duty on weekends or while traveling.  Not entirely dressy - owing to it's unique and complicated looking dial - or - entirely sporty - the case is very refined and traditional; the Manero Retrograde is entirely at home in a business casual environment that might require a suit here and there.

Functionally, the Manero RetroGrade provides the current time (hours, minutes, and seconds), the day of the week (subdial at 9 o'clock), the date (retrograde jumping display at 3 o'clock), a retrograde power reserve indication (42 hours and indicated at 6 o'clock) and a 24 hour second time zone display.   

The Carl F Bucherer Manero RetroGrade is available in several case metal and dial configurations.  For me, the stainless steel version with a deep blue dial - Ref. 00.10901.08.36.01 - is about as perfect as it gets.  There's a nice wide lighter slate outer band that contrasts perfectly with the darker blue of the inner dial and outer minute rail - the effect highlights the silver subdials of the 24 hour second time zone display and day of the week indication as well as the power reserve and date arcs.  The red logo and Bucherer monachre are tucked just below and to the left of the center arbor and definitely add to the whole presentation.

Inside the Manero RetroGrade is a re-worked ETA 2892-A2 that's known as the CFB Caliber 1903.  It's a great powerplant that's finished nicely.   

Shod in an alligator strap with pin buckle, the MSRP of the Carl F. Bucherer Manero RetroGrade is $6,300 - a very reasonable price for a nicely complicated watch from a top-tier Swiss house with a long history of manufacturing exceptional timepieces.      

Carl F. Bucherer Patravi TravelTec GMT - The Perfect Frequent Flier

The Carl F Bucherer Patravi TravelTec GMT is a stunning watch.  At almost 47mm in diameter and 16mm thick, it's got the heft of a serious watch.  The finishing on the TravelTec GMT case, like all of Bucherer's creations, is exceptional; high polished edges strategically highlight the frosty satin directional finish on the bezel and lugs.  Equally as important as the form factor of a great travel watch is it's functionality.  The TravelTec GMT delivers function in spades.  Besides all of the capabilities of a world-class chronograph, there's a orangish-red GMT hand that's adjusted via the crown to display time in a second time zone.  If you have the occasion to track time in a third zone, a bi-directional 24 hour bezel under the glass can be rotated by activating the pusher on the upper left side of the case.  There's also a 24 hour display on the minute rail and a date display at 4 o'clock in the diagonal arrangement.  No matter where your travels take you, you'll always be able to find a watchmaker familiar with the ETA 2894-2 movement that beats inside the Patravi TravelTec GMT; parts too are easy to come by. 

Bucherer has a serious presence in Europe and Asia and has been steadily increasing in popularity here in the states as it expands its dealer network. 

The TravelTec GMT is a strong play if you're like big watches with real world functionality and the pedigree and finishing to seamlessly transition into more formal environments.