Complications

Jaeger-LeCoultre 1833 Master Minute Repeater - 'Crystal' Clear

The stream of new and notable watches from the Jaeger-LeCoultre workshops seems to have taken on a fevered pitch.  Among the most impressive revelations at SIHH 2008 was the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Minute Repeater.  Part of JLC's 1833 Collection, this state-of-the-art minute repeater utilizes a crystal gong to produce an incredibly crisp and robust sound. 

The stunning rose gold case of the Master Minute Repeater is 44mm in diameter and encases the ruthenium-finished Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 947 movement.  It's a 43 jewel manually wound powerhouse that utilizes twin serially operated barrels and boasts a power reserve of 15 days. 

The skeletonized dial of the 1833 Master Minute features retrograde displays for both power reserve and torque, the latter being useful in keeping the watch operating within its optimum power band and insuring the best performance -  Jaeger recommends winding whenever the indicator falls beneath 4.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Minute Repeater is limited to 175 pieces - to commemorate the 175th anniversary of the brand.  If you like your watches extremely rare yet very well done, visit your authorized JLC dealer now - there's most likely already a waiting list!   

Parmigiani Pershing 115 Chronograph Palladium - Haute Horology meets Italian Style

Michel Parmigiani isn't wasting any time in creating a collection of timepieces to rival any of the top-tier multi-generational Swiss houses.  From very humble beginnings in a small town in Switzerland's Val de Travers - Fleurier, the Parmigiani brand has quickly become both a serious producer of fine timepieces (+/-5,000 pieces in 2007) and is now a well respected player in collector circles. 

Parmigiani has created an alliance with Tilli Antonelli, the founder and president of Pershing SPA, a well respected Italian boat builder- the result of which is the new Pershing collection of Parmigiani watches.

Not wanting for style and perhaps the most robust of Parmigiani's current offerings, the Parmigiani Pershing 115 Chronograph Palladium is an incredibly impressive watch. 

At 45mm in diameter and just over 14mm thick, the Pershing 115 definitely establishes a presence on your wrist.  The depth and texture of the dial is enhanced with Cotes de Geneve, raised bezels around the subdials and applied markers.

The palladium case has a distinctive but subtle luster that sets it apart from stainless steel or white gold.  There's a palladium crown and black rubber pushers to offer some contrast.  The external bezel is of the uni-directional rotating sort and engraved to track bottom time during diving operations (the Pershing 115 is waterproof to 200M).  The interior bezel is set with a tachymetre rail for calculating speed.

Inside the Pershing Chronograph is the Parmigiani Fleurier PF Calibre 190 automatic movement.  It has a fifty hour power reserve and drives hours, minutes, central chronograph seconds, 12-hour counter, 30-minute counter and large date indicators.  As with all Parmigiani watches - the watchmaking talent exhibited in the fit and finish of the movement is second to none.   

The 115 nomenclature denotes the largest Pershing vessel and the watches namesake - a 115' yacht that adorns the caseback of the Pershing 115 in dramatic relief.  The lines of this vessel are breathtaking and the inspiration for design unquestionably Italian.

The 115 Chrono is supplied with a natural rubber strap with deployant buckle.  A palladium bracelet is also available. 

The Parmigiani Pershing 115 Chronograph is a limited edition watch.  115 pieces will be produced in both rose gold and palladium.  Retail is from $47,000 - $68,000 USD. 

Hublot Big Bang King All Black - Flying Under the Radar with the Biggest of Bangs

Under the watchful eye of Carlo Crocco its owner; Hublot, 'the watch of all watches' has enjoyed an incredible surge in business with the introduction of its Big Bang collection.  The brainchild of Jean-Claude Biver, the man who orchestrated what many insiders view as the salvation of Blancpain, the Big Bang is a statement watch that's rich in originality, quality and design.  Now just a few years since its launch, the range of offerings in the Big Bang collection is hard to keep track of - and they are all great watches!

When I first saw the details (and pictures) of the Hublot Big Bang King All Black, I knew that this was a watch that I had to have.  I love big watches and prefer design elements that are more understated than in your face - the Big Bang King All Black is huge at 48mm and ultra stealthy with its tone on tone (charcoal over black) design.

The case of the King All Black is ceramic - it's incredibly durable, seemingly impossible to scratch and has a subtle matte finish that's unlike any other case material on the market.  The huge upside of ceramic is that you can finally enjoy a black watch without having to worry about the PVD holding up to everyday wear. 

There's a black ceramic countdown bezel with raised markers and arabics that's anchored by a bezel lug that's made of black composite resin.

The dial too is matte black with hands and markers in a satin finish that's luminescent in low light conditions.  Even the date window inside the 3 o'clock marker gets the stealth treatment with a black field that matches the dial and slightly darker numbers. 

The crown is high polish stainless steel with a black rubber insert - it, along with the titanium screws that affix the band and bezel lugs, contrasts nicely with the otherwise monotone presentation.

Inside the waterproof case (300 meters) is the Hublot HUB21 calibre movement.  It's based on the ETA 2892 and extensively modified - among the more interesting enhancements is the tungsten carbide rotor that's PVD coated and has a dimpled texture.   

The Hublot Big Bang King All Black is supplied with a black rubber strap that's secured with a stainless steel and PVD deployant buckle.  Only 500 pieces are being manufactured - secure yours now as they are sure to sell out quickly and ultimately command a premium over MSRP.          

 

OCEAN7 LM-6 - A Top Sub $1000 Diver

Mitch Feig and his crew at OCEAN7 seem to have found the perfect blend of rugged tool watch design, flawless operation and wrist impact with the OCEAN7 LM-6.  While the ranking officers at most watch companies are content with making an appearance at the awards ceremony of a sponsored event or doing the meet and greet at the shows, Mitch seems to be most interested in interacting with his customers - getting their feedback, answering their questions and even seeking their advice.  He actively participates in the OCEAN7 forum where you can ask him a question or pass along your opinions. 

On to the LM-6.  As many of you know, I'm somewhat obsessed with tool watches - more specifically dive watches.  I'm always on the lookout for a watch that's heavy in function and brings just the right amount of form to the equation too.  The 'perfect' dive watch to me is one that looks much more at home kicking the silt up at 90 feet than it does tucked beneath a french cuff (not that I don't advocate defying convention a bit and wearing a no-nonsense tool watch with a suit).  It also needs to feel like it will stand up to just about anything - and then deliver on that promise.  The OCEAN7 LM-6 handily meets all of these requirements and there's more.  The more is the fact that you can buy one for $799. USD - directly from the manufacturer (roughly four for the price of one Omega or six for the price of one Rolex) and then there's the exceptional camaraderie of the owners group you can interact with on the aforementioned forum... Oceanisti anyone?

The LM-6 is a big watch by any standard - it's 44mm diameter and 16mm thickness are a testament to the vault-like nature of the case that keeps the works dry down to 500 meters and protected from anything you are likely to encounter beneath the surface or on terra firma.  It has a great wrist presence with just enough clunk to remind you that you are wearing it.  The bezel has 120-clicks and is uni-directional and is easy to manipulate when it's wet and you are wearing gloves.  The elapsed time markers on the bezel are deeply engraved and easy to read - the orange minutes hand of the LM-6 makes for a perfect low-light indication of bottom time.  The crown of the LM-6 is robust, easy to unscrew and manipulate and protected by some serious steel. 

While there's a lot to like about the LM-6, if I had to pick a favorite, it would have to be the dial.  It's simple and uncluttered and just perfect to my eye.  Even the date window at 6 o'clock is designed to avoid distracting from the much more important work at hand.

The OCEAN7 LM-6 is available in black, blue, yellow and orange dials and with a variety of straps or a stainless steel bracelet.  It's 24mm lugs make it a perfect target for all sorts of interesting strap combinations.  Even with a lot of other options in the stable, this is a watch that will spend a lot of time on your wrist!

This is the part where I usually say that if you are looking for this or that then maybe you should consider the watch that I'm reviewing - I need to go a few steps beyond that with the LM-6!  If you like watches enough to be reading this blog - BUY THIS WATCH!          

Cyclos a.m./p.m. DualPhase - 24 Hours in 2 Rotations

The renaissance of the mechanical watch has led to some very innovative new complications.  John C. Ermel, an architect and designer, decided to focus on creating a watch that would indicate the current time on a 24 hour scale - rather than follow the conventional route of utilizing an hour hand that makes one revolution every 24 hours instead of 12, John invented and patented a mechanism, dubbed the Cyclos DualPhase module, that would systematically extend and retract the hour hand over the course of two revolutions around the dial.  Utilizing this mechanism and an arrangement of numbers on a 'Pascal's Spiral' - a sine curve of sorts with a cycle of 24 hours that defines the passing of one calendar day, Ermel created a watch that clearly defines the exact time of day or night in a very innovative yet succinct way. 

I really like the fact that unlike all other 24 hour watches, you can instinctively ascertain the time with a quick glance at the dial of the Cyclos since the hour hand is always in a conventional space (it's just longer at 10 AM than it is at 10 PM). 

The Cyclos a.m./p.m. utilizes arabic numerals arranged on a scale that is half blue and half red - the blue half denotes post meridian time (PM) and the red ante meridian (AM).  Set against a black field, these colors also add a lot of panache to the dial. 

The powerplant of the a.m./p.m. DualPhase is an ETA caliber 2892-A2 automatic movement.  It is modified to incorporate the DualPhase module, finished with perlage, decorated with Geneva stripes and COSC'd.

The case of the Cyclos a.m./p.m. is stainless steel and 39mm in diameter, it is water resistant to 50 meters and has both a sapphire crystal and display back. 

The MSRP of the Cyclos a.m./p.m. is $9,600 USD - a real value given the technical complexity and excellent fit and finish of this watch.

Eterna KonTiki Diver - Failsafe Bottom Time

Acquired by Ferdinand Porsche in 1998, and the launchpad for the Porsche Design line of watches, Eterna has a rich and storied history dating back to 1856 when it, under the direction of Urs Schild began producing watch movements.

By far the most iconic of Eterna's line of watches is the KonTiki series.  Named after the rustic raft that carried Norwegian explorer Thor Heyerdahl from Peru across the Pacific to Polynesia in 1947 and it's namesake, the Incan Sun God; the Eterna KonTiki Diver too embodies the spirit of exploration by unusual means.

In a well thought out departure from conventional dive watch design, the Eterna KonTiki Diver forgoes the ubiquitous uni-directional bottom time bezel in favor of a much more failsafe design.  Utilizing a unique two-piece case design, the movement vault and the band attachment points are connected by a hinged mechanism that is released by two activators just below the top lugs.  The crown which remains with the movement portion of the operation is secured within the undercarriage.  The bezel is mechanically locked as well - so when in the diving/wearing position, the crown is completely protected and it is impossible for the bezel to move.  To set the watch, you simply release movement container at the top attachment point and pivot it on the bottom hinge to reveal the crown.  Utilizing a shaft seal that's similar to the crankshaft seal on an automobile engine, the crown is waterproof without the need for a screw down device.  To line up the orange 'zero' triangle of the inner bezel with the minute hand to prepare for a dive, you just release the case, hinge it down a bit and rotate the outer bezel (which in turn rotates the inner bezel).  Both operations are much more simple to accomplish than to describe.

The size of the KonTiki Diver is perfectly suited to its function.  At 46mm in diameter and 16mm thick, this big Eterna is not lacking for anything when it comes to wrist presence. 

The dial, besides being easy to read and well organized, looks great with a splash of orange on the power reserve display and the first 15 minute markers of its internal bottom time bezel.  There's a date display between 7 and 8 o'clock - an unusual placement owing to the crown up orientation of the movement.   

Powering the Diver is ETA's Calibre 2897 automatic movement, it has a 42 hour power reserve that's tracked by the aforementioned orange arc at 4 o'clock on the dial.

The case of the KonTiki Diver is PVD'd titanium while the bridge and rotating bezel are stainless steel - this makes for a lightweight watch with a lot of aesthetic appeal. 

It is supplied with a silicon strap and secured with a double-folding stainless steel clasp that's equipped with a wetsuit extension.

The MSRP of Eterna KonTiki Diver is $9,200 USD.  It's a great watch that's ideally suited for the watch collector who has a taste for the unique and spends a great deal of time underwater.      

St. Gallen Semmelweiss - A Disinfectable Doctors Watch

Anyone in emergency medicine can attest to the fact that often there isn't much time to prepare for a trauma patient and, in many cases, blood and other bodily fluids find their way onto the clinician.  Aside from the doctors necktie (whole studies have been conducted around what a germ minefield one can be), there's probably no better biohazard trap than his or her watch. 

While many docs acquire a Timex Ironman early on in their residency and it remains firmly affixed to their wrist until the battery dies, some have developed a much more sophisticated taste for watches and it's not uncommon to spot some really great timepieces during a trip to the ER. 

Most watches are designed with all sorts of nooks and crannies to make them interesting - far from ideal if you come in contact with all sorts of liquiform germs each and every day. 

St. Gallen, a relatively new but very ambitious watchmaker headquartered in the Swiss town that is its namesake, has designed a series of watches specifically suited to those in the medical and rescue professions.  St. Gallen watches are designed to be easily disassembled without tools and can be completely sanitized should the need arise.

The St. Gallen Semmelweiss is a 42mm watch with a very unique hand and dial configuration.  Encircling the central dial (hours and minutes), are two concentric bezel tracks - pulsimeter and pneumograph - that are used to determine pulse and respiratory rate respectively.  To ascertain the pulse rate, you begin counting the pulse when the seconds hand passes over the red triangle at 12 o'clock and note the pulse shown beneath that hand when you have reached 15 heartbeats.  Respirations are calculated in a similar fashion except that you note the position of the hand on the pneumographic scale after counting 5 breaths.  Knowing that in many cases these measurements are critical and time is of the essence, St. Gallen designed the seconds hand of the Semmelweiss to form a cross of what is effectively four hands - this design allows for one of the hands to be passing over the starting mark every 15 seconds and ensures very quick and accurate readings.

Powering the St. Gallen Semmelweiss is an ETA 2428-2 movement with Incabloc shock protection and a 38 hour power reserve - it's a very reliable and robust choice for a watch that's intended to perform a critical function in a wide range of environments.

The case of the St. Gallen Semmelweiss is 361L stainless steel and waterproof to 330 feet.  The case is seamless to make the exposed surface much less likely to trap fluids and particles.  Also supplied is a medical grade silicon rubber strap that's secured with a stainless steel buckle (also seamless).

Included with the Semmelweiss are instructions for both basic washing (soap and water) and complete chemical sanitization.

I predict that the St. Gallen Semmelweiss will be a huge hit with docs, nurses and paramedics who enjoy mechanical watches and can appreciate the value of having a watch that's specifically designed to excel in the environments that they encounter.       

IWC Pilot's Watch Double Chronograph Top Gun - A Fitting Tribute to the US Navy Fighter Weapons School

IWC has an outstanding reputation among aviators for producing some of the worlds finest pilot's watches.  The United States Navy also enjoys a stellar reputation - for producing the worlds finest fighter pilots - graduates of the USN Fighter Weapons School where only the best of the best achieve the ranking of TOP GUN. 

When the design team at IWC was tasked with the development of a watch to honor the men and women of the US Navy who hold the coveted TOP GUN status, it was a safe bet that the watch that would result would be something equally extraordinary in terms of both horological excellence and pure panache - and it is!  The IWC Pilot's Watch Double Chronograph Top Gun is a huge watch at just over 46mm in diameter (think as big as a Big Pilot).  The case of the Double Chrono Top Gun is black ceramic - it's impervious to scuffs and scratches and a striking backdrop for the titanium crown, pushers and caseback. 

The design elements of the Top Gun dial, stark white hands and markers against a matte black field, are reminiscent of an altimeter - one of the most important instruments in the cockpit.  A bright red small seconds hand and two centrally mounted stopwatch hands with bright red tails shaped like fighters contrast nicely with the otherwise monotone presentation.  Positioned one over the other, the stopwatch hands begin to circle the dial appearing as one hand until the split function is activated and one hand stops to indicate the split time while the second continues on.  There's also a day and date display inboard of the 3 o'clock marker.  The solid caseback of the Double Chrono Top Gun is emblazoned with the TOP GUN logo.

Inside the IWC Pilot's Watch Double Chronograph Top Gun is the IWC Calibre 79230 (base ETA 7750) automatic movement.  It has 29 jewels, a 44 hour power reserve and vibrates at 28,800/hr.  The movement is protected against magnetism by a soft iron inner case.

Equipped with a black nylon strap that's secured with a signed IWC buckle, the MSRP of the IWC Pilot's Watch Double Chronograph Top Gun is $10,300.  It's a stunning watch that will undoubtedly become part of the collection of many military watch aficionados.   

   

Sinn U1 Divers - Basic with Braun

If you spend a lot of time underwater, you quickly come to appreciate the thought that has gone into the design of a watch like the Sinn U1 Divers.  As one of my favorite dive watches, the U1 gets a ton of wrist time when the weather gets hot - it's also a watch that accompanies me on a wide variety of underwater adventures. 

Sinn manufactures some of the most robust and task-ideal tool watches in the world.  The U1 incorporates all of Sinn's cutting edge innovations - from its tegimented case that is hardened to 1,500 Vickers (and much more resistant to scratches than a normal stainless steel case) to its sapphire crystal that incorporates progressive reflective technology for perfect legibility in all light conditions.  Equally important to most serious divers, the U1 shuns the superfluous in favor of a clean and clear presentation of the information expected of a watch that has a critical function in survival.  A quick glance at the Sinn U1 Divers reveals both the current time and the elapsed bottom time (courtesy of a non-losable uni-directional bezel that's lined up with the minute hand just before submerging). 

The Sinn U1 is 44mm in diameter and just over 14mm thick.  The screw-down waterproof crown is offset to the 4 o'clock position on the right side of the case - an arrangement that adds significantly to the comfort factor and eliminates the crown fatigue that can undermine a waterproof watch that sees a lot of vigorous activity.

The hands of the U1 are luminous and glow brightly when lighting conditions are poor.  Each hand is red as it emerges from the center arbor and then white (luminous) as it extends toward the minute track - a design that dramatically increases your ability to instinctively distinguish between the hours, minutes and seconds hands in all light conditions. 

Inside the U1 is an ETA Caliber 2824-2 automatic movement.  With 25 jewels and an amplitude of 28,800 vph, it's a stable and reliable performer. 

After securing the movement in the case and making the final adjustments, the watchmakers at Sinn subject the watch to a testing protocol developed in conjunction with Hamburg's Germanischer Lloyd that results in certification according to European dive equipment standards.  It confirms the temperature stability and function of the watch under extreme temperature conditions - a serious consideration as dive watches are routinely subjected to instant 50 degree temperature swings.  Lloyd also certifies the U1 for water-resistance and pressure-proofing (100 bar).

The Sinn U1 Divers is furnished with a silicon strap that has a deployant clasp equipped with a wetsuit extension.  The MSRP is $1850 USD - an incredible value for the diver who value vault-like construction and user friendly tool-like design.

Pierre Kunz Grande Date Sport - Targeting Texalium

Pierre Kunz is known throughout the world of haute horology as the master of the retrograde.  He is also one of the most talented watchmakers in Switzerland today.  With a small group of watchmakers, Kunz leverages the resources of the Frank Muller Group to produce some incredible examples of the fusion of creative design and technical mastery.

The Pierre Kunz Grande Date Sport doesn't do well flying under the radar (unless it's covered by a shirt cuff).  The depth and texture of its deep red texalium dial instantly commands attention.  Much more dramatic and unusual than carbon fiber, it provides the perfect backdrop for the large indexes and arabics that seem to float just beneath the crystal.

My favorite element of the Grande Date Sport is the the retrograde seconds display.  While hours and dates are often displayed in retrograde, a retrograde seconds display is exceedingly rare and one with an arc of only 30 seconds doesn't exist anywhere else as far as I know.  The intense and ever present sweeping motion of the seconds hand, as it passes again and again over the span of arabics that account for the passage of one half of a minute, brings even more life to an already robust dial.  The Pierre Kunz monachre is prominently featured on an arc that encompasses the date display just south of the 12 o'clock marker - the hands are also signed Pierre Kunz.

Powering the Pierre Kunz Grande Date Sport is the Caliber PK 2001-1520 automatic movement - it is ETA 2892 based, has 30 jewels, is COSC'd, beats at 28,800 vph and has been expertly re-worked by the watchmakers at Pierre Kunz.

The case of the Grande Date Sport is stainless steel and 44mm in diameter.  With its deployant clasp, the rubber band is both comfortable and secure. 

The retail price of the Grande Date Sport (ref. G016 GD) is $12,300 USD.  It's a stunning watch that commands attention and exudes the synergy of the creative and technical prowess of Pierre Kunz.